Time to say goodbye to Hakuba! It has been a really amazing winter trip filled with so many memorable firsts—snowboarding for the very first time, sipping hot Milo by a cosy fireplace in a lodge while snow fell quietly outside, and waking up to fresh snowfall every single morning. (We even got screamed at at a manga café—haha, beautiful memories that I will never ever forget!).
As we were leaving Hakuba, it was time to embark on the last leg of our Japan trip heading back to Tokyo. After a wonderful handmade bread breakfast at Il Bosco (gosh, I’m already missing that fresh bread as I write this post!), we drove back to Nagano Station to return our rental car and catch the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Tokyo.
How We Ended Up in Gran Class (And What It Cost)
Because we booked our Shinkansen tickets pretty late, there were hardly any seats left in the train we originally wanted to catch. Our only option to stick to our schedule was to upgrade to Gran Class—the ultra-luxury premium class on the Shinkansen.
Ticket Cost & Booking Details
- Train Service: Asama 636 (Hokuriku Shinkansen line)
- Car & Seats: Car 12, Seats 4B and 4C
- Departs: Nagano Station at 10:34 AM
- Arrives: Tokyo Station at 12:12 PM (about 1 hour 38 minutes)
- Total Cost: ~31,100 yen for two (~S$250)
To put that in perspective, 31,100 yen is nearly double the price of an unreserved seat in an ordinary car on the same train.
Quick tip: Shinkansen prices aren’t fixed. They vary by route, class, and season. Check schedules and book directly via the official JR-East Train Reservation Portal.
“Seat-Only” vs. “Full Service” Gran Class
Now this is the bit that trips up most travellers. Not every Gran Class Shinkansen ride comes with the fancy food and attendant service you see on YouTube. JR East runs two very different versions.
Full-Service Gran Class
Available on longer routes like the Kagayaki or Hayabusa. You get a dedicated cabin attendant, a seasonal gourmet bento box, free-flowing drinks and alcohol, hot towels, and amenity kits. The full Japanese hospitality experience.
Seat-Only Gran Class
Operated on shorter routes like our Asama 636. Same luxurious seats, same quiet cabin, but no attendant, no food, no drinks. It’s purely a seating upgrade.
Since our train was a seat-only service, it functioned purely as a quiet, ultra-spacious seating upgrade. If you need food or drinks for the ride, make sure to buy them at Nagano Station before boarding!
Inside Car 12: The Cabin & Seat Experience
The moment you step into Car 12, you feel it. The lighting is dimmer, the air is quieter, and the whole vibe shifts from “commuter train” to “private lounge on wheels.”
- 2+1 Seating: Only 18 seats in the entire carriage. Maximum privacy, minimum noise.
- Massive Leather Recliners: Genuine leather seats that recline up to 45 degrees via an automated control panel.
- Power Leg Rests: Fully adjustable so you can properly elevate your feet.
- Amenities: Personal power outlets, a large pull-out table, non-glare LED reading light, and a privacy partition between seats.
The legroom is so generous that you can fully stretch out your legs without coming close to touching the seat in front of you.
How Does Gran Class Compare to Other Cars?
Practical Tips Before You Book Gran Class Shinkansen
- Grab an Ekiben: Since the Asama has no food service, pick up a station bento and drink from the concourse shops at Nagano Station.
- Luggage-Friendly: Winter travellers with large suitcases or gear will love it. Overhead compartments are larger and there’s ample foot space.
- JR Pass Holders, Take Note: The standard JR Pass only covers the Base Fare. You’ll need to pay the Express Surcharge and the Gran Class fee separately.
- Motion Sickness Friendly: If you get motion sickness easily like I do, you’ll love how smooth this train rides. The suspension is incredible.
Final Verdict
I can’t definitively say whether it’s 100% worth the extra money since I didn’t take the ordinary class on this specific route to compare. However, even though the ride from Nagano to Tokyo was relatively short (1h 38m), it was easily the most comfortable ride I’ve ever taken on a bullet train.
The ride was super smooth (zero motion sickness!), the seats were ridiculously comfortable, my legs could fully stretch out, and the whole cabin was peaceful and quiet. It was the most relaxing way to transition from a active snowboarding trip in Hakuba back to Tokyo. For future long-haul Shinkansen trips, I will definitely consider Gran Class for that unbeatable comfort!
