Edinburgh is one of those cities that doesn’t quite feel real when you’re walking through it. Picture rugged volcanic hills crashing into dark, moody stone buildings that look like they’ve stood there for a thousand years. I recently spent some glorious time exploring the Scottish capital, and ended up covering serious ground—from the highest crags right down to the quietest cobbled alleyways. So if you’re curious about what a proper trip up north actually looks like, here’s my full Edinburgh travel diary, with every spot I wandered into along the way.
My studio at Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile — compact, stylish, and perfectly positioned for exploring the city on foot.
My Base on the Royal Mile
For this trip, I stayed smack in the thick of the action at the Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile. Staying here makes it incredibly convenient to get everywhere on foot—that is, if you don’t mind an uphill walk towards Edinburgh Castle. Because yes, that road is properly slopey. Read my full review to learn more about my experience staying in this aparthotel.
The unmistakable silhouette of Arthur’s Seat looming over the city rooftops.
Exploring the Hills & Volcanic Landscapes
The very first thing that struck me about Edinburgh is the geography. You can be walking down a crowded street, glance up, and see a massive, wind-swept hill looming right over the city. Wild.
The path into Holyrood Park, lined with blazing yellow gorse — it’s hard to believe you’re still within city limits.
The dramatic volcanic crags of Holyrood Park, with hikers dwarfed by the ancient rockface ahead. This is what makes Edinburgh unlike any other capital city.
The reward for the climb — sweeping views from Arthur’s Seat across Edinburgh all the way to the Firth of Forth glittering on the horizon.
The brooding ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel perched high on the hillside.
Swans gliding across the still waters of St. Margaret’s Loch, with the golden gorse-covered slopes of Arthur’s Seat reflected behind them.
Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat
I trekked up Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano sitting right in the middle of the city. The climb was a moderate walk—very good exercise, definitely. The views from the slopes were absolutely incredible. I passed the dramatic stone ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel, which look straight down over the swans floating on St. Margaret’s Loch. The whole area feels completely wild, even though you’re just minutes from the city centre.
The unfinished National Monument of Scotland — twelve massive Doric columns that were meant to become Scotland’s own Parthenon. Locals sometimes call it “Scotland’s Disgrace,” but honestly, it’s all the more dramatic for being incomplete.
The ivy-draped Nelson Monument rising above Calton Hill — a striking tribute to the admiral that’s been a fixture of Edinburgh’s skyline since 1816.
The neoclassical main building of the City Observatory, with its grand Greek columns and a peek of the dome behind.
The elegant copper dome of the City Observatory up close — one of several fascinating structures clustered together on Calton Hill’s summit.
The quirky, castellated Old Observatory House, perched on the hillside with the city spread out behind it. It really does look like a miniature castle.
Calton Hill
I also headed over to Calton Hill, which feels like Edinburgh’s own little acropolis. It’s packed with historic monuments:
- The massive Greek-style columns of the National Monument of Scotland
- The towering Nelson Monument
- The old structures around the City Observatory, including the City Dome
- The charming Old Observatory House, which looks like a miniature castle
Walking the Royal Mile & Historic Old Town
After exploring the heights, I spent days getting lost in the medieval, dense streets of the Old Town.
Edinburgh Castle
I started with the big one: Edinburgh Castle. It sits majestically on its volcanic rock overlooking the entire city, and walking through the gates feels like stepping straight into Scotland’s military history.
The bottom of the Royal Mile at Abbey Strand.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse
From the castle, I made my way all the way down to the bottom of the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King’s official residence in Scotland.
Queen Mary’s Bath House
Right near the palace grounds, I stumbled across Queen Mary’s Bath House—a brilliant, tiny 16th-century stone pavilion tucked away by the roadside.
The grand facade of St. Giles’ Cathedral.
The Hub
Walking back up the cobblestones, the architecture just keeps getting grander. I stopped to admire the famous crown spire of St. Giles’ Cathedral cutting into the sky, and further up, the massive Gothic tower of The Hub.
The carved stone plaque on Lady Stair’s House.
The Writers’ Museum
One of the literary quotes etched into the flagstones of Makars’ Court outside the Writers’ Museum.
I also made sure to duck into the quiet side alleys, called closes. Down one of them, I found Lady Stair’s Close and the gorgeous courtyard of The Writers’ Museum, dedicated to Scotland’s great authors.
Scott Monument on Princes Street.
Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland’s greatest literary giants.
Speaking of writers, you literally cannot miss the Scott Monument on Princes Street. It’s a towering, soot-stained Gothic structure, and if you walk right up to the arches, you can see the white marble statue of Sir Walter Scott resting inside.
Greyfriars Kirk, with the little memorial to Greyfriars Bobby.
Greyfriars Bobby
Graves, Legends, and Colourful Streets
No Edinburgh travel diary is complete without diving into the city’s ghost stories and local legends. My next stop was Greyfriars Kirkyard. This cemetery is hauntingly beautiful, full of mossy headstones and gated tombs. Just outside the gates sits the famous bronze statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the legendary little terrier who reportedly guarded his master’s grave for 14 years. Reminds me of Hachiko. Dogs really are man’s best friend.
Victoria Street in full swing — rainbow shopfronts, colourful bunting strung overhead, and the grand stone terrace of the upper level looming behind. Easily one of the most photogenic streets in all of Edinburgh.
I then wandered over to Victoria Street, arguably the most photographed street in the city. It sweeps down in a bright, double-level curve lined with colourful shopfronts.
Grassmarket street market
Cold Town House, the Grassmarket bar that manages to make a converted stone church look effortlessly cool — the cascading floral installation on the spire is a lovely touch.
The Scotch Whisky Experience, housed in the handsome former Castlehill School right at the top of the Royal Mile, just steps from the castle gates. A mandatory stop for any whisky lover visiting Edinburgh.
Following the curve brings you right into the Grassmarket, a bustling square full of historic pubs. While I was there, I grabbed a pint at Cold Town House and checked out The Scotch Whisky Experience right up by the castle gates.
Before leaving the Old Town, I noticed a cool detail pressed into the flagstones right outside the City Chambers: The Edinburgh Award handprints, where famous locals like J.K. Rowling have left their mark in bronze.
Escaping the Centre: Fairytales & Seaside Vibes
While the historic core is amazing, two of my absolute favourite wanderings took me slightly outside the immediate city centre.
First, I took a leisurely walk along the Water of Leith down to the tranquil Dean Village. Honestly, it feels like walking straight into a fairytale.
Portobello Beach
On another afternoon, I drove out to Portobello Beach. Walking along the sandy promenade with a soft serve in hand was the perfect breezy contrast to the dense stone of the Old Town.
The Pakora Bar
Scotts Kitchen
Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips
Oink Hog Roast
Loudons Cafe
The Beach House
The Edinburgh Food Scene
I’m a travel foodie at heart, and I love exploring local eats in every city I visit. I had some seriously incredible meals during my time in Edinburgh:
- The Pakora Bar – amazing pakoras, must try
- Scotts Kitchen – lovely outdoor terrace brunch overlooking Victoria Street
- Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips – delicious, crispy battered haddock
- Oink Hog Roast – quick, meaty hog roast roll on the go
- Loudons – delicious bennys and French toast
- The Beach House – an amazing Buddha Bowl right by the seaside
A Stroll Through the New Town & Beyond
I also explored New Town, which has a completely different feel—wider streets, Georgian elegance, a touch more polish. Walking through St. Andrew Square to see the massive Melville Monument towering over the gardens, and passing the iconic Balmoral Hotel clock tower really showed me how much variety is packed into this one city.
The towering Melville Monument rising above the gardens of St. Andrew Square.
The magnificent Balmoral Hotel, its iconic clock tower presiding over the top of Princes Street.
The neoclassical facade of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Modern One).
My final stop at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Modern One), with its surreal, sculpted earthwork lawn out front, was the perfect peaceful spot to process the whole experience.
Final Thoughts
Edinburgh completely captured my imagination. It is a place where history sits right out in the open, and every single street corner feels like it has a story to tell. Whether you’re climbing volcanic peaks, escaping to a seaside promenade, or hunting for hidden courtyards in the Old Town, it is a city that demands you take your time and explore on foot. It has easily become one of my favourite urban wanderings—dramatic nature meets incredible depth of character. Bookmark this Edinburgh travel diary for your own trip up north, because trust me, you’ll want every one of these spots on your list.
